Thanks to Queen Victoria’s choice of Honiton lace from Devon as part of her wedding dress and veil, lace has endured as a beautiful and exuberant choice of fabric for bridal gowns.Here’s Bridal Fabrics guide to the most enduring and popular fabrics – from laces that have a long heritage to those created by the most modern techniques.
Chantilly – a very fine and delicate lace with a soft handle. The motifs are sometimes outlined in a heavier silky thread or exhibit shading effects and it normally has doubled scalloped edges. It featured in the Princess of Wales’ wedding dress. It is named after the town in the north of France where the fabric was first created by the Duchesse de Longueville, a noted member of the aristocracy with a reputation for being a bit of a trendsetter! Also known as Galloon lace, the fabric is created from an orderly mesh of hexagons, imbuing it with extra strength and a unique handle. Gorgeously tactile, delicate and feminine, with a sweeping drape unlike that of any other wedding material, Chantilly lace, on its own or hand beaded, is a staple of bridal couture.
Guipure, also known as Venetian Lace, is one of the earliest and most enduring types. References date back as far as 1327, when the clergy of Exeter Cathedral proudly listed four pieces amongst their possessions. This lace features a continuous motif, which creates a denser, more raised pattern than other qualities and often contains a floral or geometric design. The motif is made by a series of closely packed embroidery stitches onto a fine fabric that disintegrate in the finishing process, so unlike other types of laces, the “backing” fabric cannot be seen in the finished article. As it is a robust fabric it is easy to use and can feature in the bodice, skirt or train of a dress.
Raschel is a knitted, rather than woven, lace available in a range of designs and weights. The knitting machines were developed in the 19th century to provide an an alternative to the more expensive chantilly laces which were, and still are, woven on Leavers machines. While raschel laces are every bit as delicate and sophisticated as those made in Chantilly, the production tends to be faster and, therefore, the price can be lower. The handle is lightweight with a soft drape.
Embroidered laces typically use a tulle backing, onto which is embroidered first with a decorative pattern, normally now in rayon yarn. The designs can range from compact satin stitch, which creates a heavier and stiffer handle, yet a more opulent quality, to a chain stitch or a lighter embroidery to create gauzy feel, suitable for a bohemian look for instance.
These laces can be embellished for even greater beauty and individuality. Elegant corded lace was originally made exclusively in northern France, but is now made all over the world. Originally known as Alencon lace, it is formed by highlighting details in the pattern using a cord, which gives a slightly textured look.
Alternatively, or in addition to cording, sequins and beads can also be added to a add sparkle.
3D Lace is a relatively recent innovation but currently very much “on trend”. Striking patterns can be achieved when satin fabrics are laser cut into various shapes and then embroidered onto different fabrics to embellish their design. Alternatively, embroidered flowers or leaves are sewn onto a tulle base.
Glitter laces, too, are a “modern” addition to the selection for the atelier. A lacy look is achieved by adherining sequins and glitter to a tulle base to produce eye-catching designs, while maintaining great drape.
The manufacturing process is low cost, so this fabric offers a good value alternative to traditional lace.
As laces are particularly fragile, they need to be worked with some special techniques. For example, It is best to remove decorative elements near the seam allowances; you can then add them by hand when your work is complete. This will ensure that your machine needle will remain sharp.
As the fabric has an openwork structure it cannot be stitched together with a straight stitch, but rather with a narrow zigzag stitch on the machine. It’s best to use an English seam to join.